OMG, this is America in the 70's with a racial divide so prevalent that it just catches my breath. There is such a huge distinction between rich White (Western European) and the Black/Colored people. I'll get to the color distinction shortly. I really had no idea what Apartheid was all about on my arrival, just call me ignorant. I have prided myself on being open to new ideas (all of them: political, racial, cultural, religious and the list goes on...) but the class distinction between people in Capetown is in your face. The tension is real. I felt like I arrived in Selma, Alabama...in the racist past. The shops have gates that read entrance is prohibited to shop owner discretion, meaning no Black/Coloreds allowed. The only Black/Colored people you see are wait staff, gas attendants, bus drivers and car park attendants. The reason I clarify the difference between the races like this is that they do it themselves. Blacks are the South Afrikans or other Black people from Africa (Congo, Tanzanians, etc), Coloreds are what we call black home; people of mixed race meaning they have in their past a white ancestor and they are so proud of that class distinction that they make the distinction between themselves and the Black South Africans. The wealth of the whites is astronomical and the Blacks/Coloreds live in squalor in Townships outside the city center. Think Harlem or any other pre-gentrified squalor neighborhood that you avoided due to fear for you life. Thing is in South Africa, they are allowed to squat a parcel of land for 48hours and then the government has to provide electricity, fresh water and toilets. Only problem is that the electricity is being wired into a corrugated shack or worse type structure. The fresh water is centrally located in the Township via a faucet and the toilets for the whole community are a row of port-a-potties. I can't put the horrendous conditions into words that you will be able to understand so I will allow pictured to do my bidding.
To a more positive topic; I had a great time as the beaches were amazing and the water was freezing, the wine country spectacular, and the Cape of Good Hope an awesome experience. As I have said time and again, not being a extreme sport person, there is bungy jumping, skydiving, cliff repelling, shark dives all of which I did not participate in. I also decided not to go on safari. I know, go to S. Africa and not go on safari, but let me justify my reasons...it was the middle of winter or at least in the low 60's South Africa weather that is cold, I wanted to see animals not awaken them from hibernation, and being a single traveler I would better enjoy such an event sharing it with someone...so something for the future to do list.
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| Government Building facing the Green Market, where there is a daily market of tourist trinkets, clothing & electronics. |
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| The District 6 Museum is an archival museum from those who used to live in the area prior to Apartheid. Very moving stories of life (very hard life) but happy and community oriented prior to being moved from the designated "White area" and relocated to the Townships outside of town. |
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| Spectacular Beauty everywhere you look...the City of Capetown is surrounded by water (Atlantic Ocean) and mountain ranges (Lion Point) |
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| The "Black Richy Rich" from the District 6 Museum |
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| Street Art that Says It All! |
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| The football stadium built for the FIFA World Cup. The stadium is now vacant and costing the Country a pretty penny to maintain. Why, Why, Why is this allowed to happen over and over again??? |
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| Capetown Backpacker hostel was my home away from home while in Capetown. Upstairs window to the left was mine. I had a fantastic view of Lion's Point. Miss you guys! |
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| Ladybugs....thinking of you Mom! |
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| What the HELL is that red thing shooting the bird over your shoulder??? It actually is a rather large sculpture made of recycled plastic coke bottle cartons and it is the #1 not the middle finger being given. |
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| Majestic Table Mountain on a beautiful day in Capetown, South Africa! Yeah i climbed the face of that thing. It took 3 hours but I did it!! |
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| I wasn't lying about the separation of classes/races. Sad but true. |
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| Lion Point and yeah, i climbed that one also, alone and on a windy day that will whip you an up do in no time flat. |
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| No I didn't use a filter, it is just how the sun caught the mist coming off the waves on that day at the beach. |
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| Another reason i didn't mind walking to the beach on the really pretty days. Ok that would all of them except my wine tour day but who cared...didn't I just say we were on a wine tour the day it rained. |
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| Yeah....spectacular beauty in paradise with a dark side. |
Hi Scott, it is Mandy from South Africa and I have to say your comments about Cape Town are grossly exaggerated.
ReplyDeleteI have lived there for 3 years and I can tell you it is not like Alabama in the past - we do not have the klu klux klan or lynching or burning of people.
Also that sign on the shop is not referring to Africans not being allowed, that shop is most likely situated in an area that maybe has vagrants or street kids that come and hassle customers. Did you maybe ask the shop owner what they meant?
Remember that out of a population of 47 million people; 80 % are African, 10 % are White and the other 10 % are Indian, Coloured, Chinese etc so yes you will see more Africans in lower wage jobs. I actually was a waitress and so were many of my friends.
Yes, there is a divide between the Whites and Africans but you obviously did not go into the areas where there African middle class and upper class is growing. Come to Johannesburg where Africans drive BMW'S and Mercedes but other Africans do still live in townships.
Next time come and stay longer in South Africa and travel around and actually speak to all the people in our rainbow nation.
Maybe when you are back in India go and see the slums there and also go to Rio in Brazil and check out those slums, and go look at the slums in Bangkok. Actually where ever you travel there are poor people leaving in sad conditions.
Our country has changed alot in 17 years and yes we still have a long way to go but it is a fantastic country with potential, energy and beautiful people.
Mandy
Hi Mandy,
ReplyDeleteThanks for your added insight. I appreciate a locals feedback especially one so passionate. The gates I refer to are on Long Street the main tourist shopping/bar/pedestrian thoroughfare in Capetown. These gates are on most shops/bistro's all along the main road. I retract my assumption of their intent. I will clarify that I did walk the entire city of Capetown from Long Street to Woodstock market, thru the District 6 area along the coast to the Waterfront, past Lion Point to to beach, climbed Table Mountain and Lion Point (alone) and never felt any threat at all much to the surprise of the locals/tourists I shared my day's outings with. My commentary at the beginning of my blog was my impression of what i saw and granted 3 weeks is not enough to know a city or it's culture in depth. However the history and sites I visited were my experience (from talking to locals and tourists) and that is what I share.